Thursday, 1 September 2011

Wackes, Cologne

A great discovery, this place, with just a few minor irritants. It is an adorable little place in the margin of the city centre, a few steps from the middle of the ring road that does Alsatian cuisine.
Alsace is an area in the middle between north and south, east and west, half German, half French. They like their snails as much as their sauerkraut, and simple, yet fine white wines are produced there.

The major original contribution to the world's stock of recipes from the area is the 'Flammkuchen' - flamed cake - comparable, in a way, to pizza, in that it is a very thin dough, covered traditionally with onions, bacon and sour cream. Goes adorably with a crisp Riesling.

The restaurant does 'Flammkuchen', but as it is a simple dish, it is not really advised to order it, because the owners (this being one of the minor irritants) prefer to serve bigger orders and are liable to turn a little stand-offish if you don't order anything major. (In fact, the review websites that have reviews on this restaurant have people complaining they became outright rude when the guests asked for soda-pops - which, indeed are not on the menu! - something that, I agree, isn't right, but, then, really, soda-pops with a good meal...??? - we've always gone with the wines they recommended, which might have been naive, but we can only say that we fared really well with it. :D )

So, what do they do that it is recommendable to order, then?

Well, I tried both my first frog-legs and my first vinyard-snails (escargots) there, and they were both some of the most delicious things I've ever tried. Maybe it was just the herb-and-oil dressing they came in, but it still makes my mouth water to just remember them. :D
The first time we were there, I had a fish dish that was lovely, and my partner had a poussin (spring chicken) cooked in a clay pot. He loved it so much, that he had the same again the second time we went. The second time, I tried their Flammkuchen - which was good, but, as I said, I did experience them going 'hmmph' in an implicit way. We've been three times altogether by now, and the third time I had some pork cheeks, which were lovely, too.
For dessert, I once had an apple-Flammkuche, flamed with calvados, which was pretty cool, and we also tried their Creme Brulée with Hop Brandy, which oddly came with the brandy separately the first time, but the next time was claimed to have the brandy inside. Ah, well, it was lovely both ways.

Seating is comfy yet simple - like the local food - and prices are mid-range. Another one of the slight irritants is that they like to get the bill slightly wrong in their favour - people on the review pages remark on this, and we noticed it two out of the three times we went - but it was pennies, so no problem, really.