Wackes, Cologne

A great discovery, this place, with just a few minor irritants. It is an adorable little place in the margin of the city centre, a few steps from the middle of the ring road that does Alsatian cuisine.

Alsace is an area in the middle between north and south, east and west, half German, half French. They like their snails as much as their sauerkraut, and simple, yet fine white wines are produced there.

The major original contribution to the world's stock of recipes from the area is the 'Flammkuchen' - flamed cake - comparable, in a way, to pizza, in that it is a very thin dough, covered traditionally with onions, bacon and sour cream. Goes adorably with a crisp Riesling.

The restaurant does 'Flammkuchen', but as it is a simple dish, it is not really advised to order it, because the owners (this being one of the minor irritants) prefer to serve bigger orders and are liable to turn a little stand-offish if you don't order anything major. (In fact, the review websites that have reviews on this restaurant have people complaining they became outright rude when the guests asked for soda-pops - which, indeed are not on the menu! - something that, I agree, isn't right, but, then, really, soda-pops with a good meal...??? - we've always gone with the wines they recommended, which might have been naive, but we can only say that we fared really well with it. :D )

So, what do they do that it is recommendable to order, then?

Well, I tried both my first frog-legs and my first vinyard-snails (escargots) there, and they were both some of the most delicious things I've ever tried. Maybe it was just the herb-and-oil dressing they came in, but it still makes my mouth water to just remember them. :D

The first time we were there, I had a fish dish that was lovely, and my partner had a poussin (spring chicken) cooked in a clay pot. He loved it so much, that he had the same again the second time we went. The second time, I tried their Flammkuchen - which was good, but, as I said, I did experience them going 'hmmph' in an implicit way. We've been three times altogether by now, and the third time I had some pork cheeks, which were lovely, too.

For dessert, I once had an apple-Flammkuche, flamed with calvados, which was pretty cool, and we also tried their Creme Brulée with Hop Brandy, which oddly came with the brandy separately the first time, but the next time was claimed to have the brandy inside. Ah, well, it was lovely both ways.

Seating is comfy yet simple - like the local food - and prices are mid-range. Another one of the slight irritants is that they like to get the bill slightly wrong in their favour - people on the review pages remark on this, and we noticed it two out of the three times we went - but it was pennies, so no problem, really.

http://www.wackes-weinstube.de/

Lichtenberg, Cologne

Vor ein paar Wochen haben wir diese hübsche Weinbar mit Restaurant in einer Seitenstraße hinter einem der großen Kaufhauszentren nähe Neumarkt in Köln entdeckt.

Hier bekommt man eine ausgezeichnete Auswahl an Weinen im Glas, viele weitere interessante Getränke aller Art und eine gute, kleine Speisenauswahl zu menschlichen Preisen. Damit ist das "Lichtenberg" eine schöne Möglichkeit, nach dem Einkaufen ein bißchen auszuspannen. Man kann draußen sitzen - es gibt Wolldecken über den Sitzen, wenn es kühl ist - und die Innendekoration ist sehr originell, mit Leuchtern aus Kristallglas und -geschirr und einem Stutzflügel. Die Speisekarte unterhält mit literarischen Zitaten als Randnotizen.

http://www.cafelichtenberg.de/

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A few weeks ago, my partner and I discovered this lovely winebar and restaurant in a side-street behind a major shopping arcade in Cologne.

They have an excellent choice of wines by the glass, interesting varieties of all kinds of drinks and a nice selection of foods. Prices are decent, so this is always an option for a bit of relaxing on a stressful shopping trip or so. The indoors decoration is cool, quite original (chandeliers made of crystal glass dishes, a baby grand) and there's outdoor seating with blankets provided on the chairs. The menu entertains with literature quotes as marginal notes.

http://www.cafelichtenberg.de/

Amfora, Ghent

On a brief visit to Ghent last weekend, we had lunch at this unassuming place, and I was very pleasantly surprised by how good the food was.

The restaurant is located on a pretty square a few minutes away from the central place of the town, in a nice shopping area. From outside, it looks like a café with simple snacks for food and when you enter, the downstairs guestroom is far from charming. However, there is an upstairs which is inviting and has a lovely view towards the square the restaurant is on and the interesting architecture around it.

The place is indeed more a cafe than a restaurant in that it is open only during day and offers mainly cafe-type dishes, which also has a very positive effect on the prices, and all dishes and drinks we had were excellent.

I had a quiche with a shrimp and cheese filling (a local specialty), which sounds odd but tasted marvellous, my partner had meatballs in a spicy vegetable sauce, which came with really good fries, our friends an omelette and a focaccia filled with goat cheese.
For dessert there were pancakes with chocolate sauce and a really good vanilla ice-cream. The pancakes were wonderfully light and fluffy - if I'd known before, I'd have had them just with a sugar sprinkling, as they didn't need a sauce to help them go down.
For drinks, there was an ample choice of Belgian beers and I had a tea that came in style in a little cast iron tea pot.

Definitely a recommendation if you need a bit of a refreshment between shopping and enjoying the beauties of Ghent.

http://www.zone09.be/wca_digi/resto_detail/63/52157/Amfora-.html

Lobster at The Landing, Kennebunkport, Maine

When it comes to food, I'm normally of a somewhat inland persuasion. I love the sea, though, I'm near a major river and I like to eat fish, too. I've had fantastic fish dishes, esp when staying at the coast. I'm not too much into shellfish of any kind, though - not a fan of the texture and I tend to find the taste not worthwhile the risk of getting ill from a bad piece of shellfish. However, I'm always happy to give new things a try, and when we went on a holiday to New England last September, one of the things I'd definitely wanted to do there was to try some of the seafood specialties of the area.

In addition to chowder (or, more precisely "chowdah" ;) ), which I had delicious examples of at various places, the main challenge was lobster.

I'd not eaten lobster at all before in my life, and I was quite excited about the whole thing. My chance to try it came at a weekend trip to Kennebunkport in Maine. Here, we were happy to find The Landing, a restaurant with all kinds of lobster-variations on the menu and idyllic waterfront seating.



I ordered whole lobster, which came with butter, excellent chips (fries) and a really good salad - plus, of course, that requisite of humiliation, a funny plastic bib.



I needed a lot of advice of what to do and how, but I managed to crack the critter open and enjoyed the process of finding the food inside.

And, oooooh, how good this food was! I hadn't expected the lobster meat to be so sweet and tender and juicy. I even went on to eat the green bit inside, which I was told was edible though opinions were divided - some people scorned it, others relished it. Encouraged by the success of the lobster-eating-experiment so far, I dipped my chips in it and found it of exquisite taste.

(I tried not to think too much about what it might be - after all, it looked, to all intents and purposes, as if it might have been nothing worse than that staple of British pub food, mushy peas - and it certainly tasted better than those. ;) :D )

I had lovely glass of white wine with it, which complemented the lobster very well.

Prices and service were both alright.

Definitely a recommendation for a lovely place with good food.

http://www.landingintheport.com/

New Year's at the Limbourg

My sweetie had booked a table at the Limbourg for us to welcome the new year with a leisurely meal.

The restaurant right round the corner from Friesenplatz (Cologne's party mile) looks small at first sight, but actually has a second floor, so is not quite as small as it seems.

I had been doubtful at first, as Friesenplatz is not my favourite part of town and the restaurant had looked almost too understated at a first quick glance.

Getting there on New Year's Eve, though, it was soon evident that is was an excellent choice. Right round the corner from the tram, it was nevertheless quiet - hardly any background music throughout the evening - non-smoking, and the other guests seemed perfectly bearable on this evening. Also, in spite of the brick walls, the atmosphere as well as the temperature was pleasantly warm and comfortable. The tables were decorated perfectly for the occasion, with lots of silly paper toys and balloons to amuse you during the evening. There were even a couple of crackers provided.

The meal consisted of six courses, spread out perfectly over the evening, starting at eight and ending shortly after eleven. The amount for each course was perfect, too.
We had aperitifs and then a bottle of Champagne during the meal.

There was some bread with salsa first, probably to keep you entertained or as amuse geule. I had stupidly forgotten my insulin, so I had to take it slowly on the carbs, which worked ok, though. (The nice thing about classy meals like that is that they tend to come with very few carbs. ;) :D )

The meal opened with scallops in a pine, date and mince sauce. The pine kernel with the dried fruit made a very curious texture sensation in the mouth.

Next was a smoked duck breast, thinly cut, with lambs lattice, cheese and balsamico. The meat was delicious (if intense and at times a teeny bit chewy - just so much that I was glad for the salad and some bread). I couldn't detect the balsamico, though, but as it didn't spoil the taste, that was ok.

Next was a lemon sorbet. This was my favourite course of all, as it was exactly what I'd always imagined sorbet to be like, from what I'd heard of it. So far, what I'd had had mostly just been more or less frozen juice. This, by contrast, was certainly 'half frozen' in texture and consisting to a large part of sparkling wine, as it was swimming in a glass of prosecco.

This providing a nice break and transition, for the following main course you could choose between meat and fish. Both of us chose the meat, which was haunch of lamb, briefly fried, with a morel sauce, sweet potato slices and a half pear filled with a thyme-creme.
It was very good, although I prefer my lamb cooked tender. I had a few inedible bits on it, which wasn't helped by the fact that my knife had an edge as sharp as an eraser.

The first dessert was Lebkuchen-mousse in a chocolate ring with slices of mulled-wine-jelly. The mousse with the chocolate was excellent, though I wasn't convinced by the jelly.

To finish up, there was a cheese course, with four different cheeses and some grapes and bread. The cheeses were all delicious, and just enough to be filling without being too much.

We had finished the Champagne by then, and I had a glass of French dry Muscadet with the last course, which was really good, too.

When it went on midnight, glasses of Prosecco were poured for everyone to take, which was really nice, I thought - not having to make sure you order in time so you have a glass in your hand in time. A slight disadvantage was that no one was officially checking the clock and counting down the time, so we went a bit stumbling for the time - but it was pretty much around midnight, certainly while it was still 00:00, that we clinked our glasses and cheered the new year, then all went outside to see what fireworks were being let go on Friesenplatz.
It wasn't as crowded as I'd expected - it's probably a bit off-centre for a night like that - but, then, no drunken crowds was just what I'd wanted, so that was good; and we still saw a nice amount of rockets, too - and not seeing a part of them, because we didn't have eyes for them just then. ;)

When the rocket spectacle was over, we went back inside and settled down for a nightcap.
I had a shot of Williams pear spirits, which they made a very generous glass. It was very good and provided and a nicely rounded finish for a wonderful, delicious, fun New Year's Eve.

http://www.limbourg.mynetcologne.de/